Comquip Equipment Sales, Toronto

Comquip's Used Equipment Designations
We have developed an incremental list of 10 terms to help describe a machine to assist the potential buyer 
Each machine posted will normally have assigned to it by us the most appropriate term to describe it
This page outlines all of those designations and offers explanation as to what each refers to in our view.  We hope it helps
(1-4) Low priced units likely requiring some additional work
1.Inoperable / Parting out – Non-operable machines being sold for parts or for rebuilding
2.Mechanic’s Special – Functional machine, but will likely need more repair before being put to work
3.Quick Sale – Machine seems to be pretty good, but our shop hasn’t had the opportunity to look it over 
4.As Is – We think it is okay as it is, but we can’t say with full confidence, it just might need some more attention

(5-7) We are confident we’ve found* and fixed anything significant that needed to be done on these machines
5.Jobsite Ready – We’re pretty certain we’ve found* & fixed everything at this point that it needs to go to work
6.Refurbished – Done a number of things to significantly improve the machine’s functionality and appearance
7.Fully Reconditioned – A big project undertaken to restore the machine to close to as-new condition
7+     Original / Needed nothing (needed little) – As good as 7 above, except it needed almost no work to be done

(8-10) New or very close to new machines
8.Fresh – low in hours and/or new in model year and/or obviously little used and/or in exceptional condition
9.Demo/Repo – barely used from new, a factory or dealer demonstrator, or perhaps a repossession
10.New – on rare occasion we have a brand new from factory machine

*Techs go over the machine from end to end following a written checklist form of 44 points looking at everything from the unit's electrical health to observations of its hydraulic functions, behavior of its controls, functionality of accessories such as lighting systems, gauges, condition of mechanical components and so forth.  They then determine which need attention and go on to resolve any issues as able.  We do not guarantee all shortfalls are caught and addressed, but we do do our best at attempting to do so.  See our mission statement on next page, which outlines our intent to sell machines in as good a condition as we possibly can, within constraints.
Used Equipment Designations Explanation
Further to the above 10 terms we use to categorize the various machines we sell, this will explain in greater detail the meaning of each.  
These are designations that we at Comquip have come up with to help the purchaser more clearly understand what kind of machine he or she is looking at to potentially purchase. It is our intention to see that all new owners of compact excavation equipment be able to acquire the best match of machinery for the budget and requirements. We hope will provide useful knowledge to the buyer.  

You’ll note this is a graduated list, increasing from lower to higher in overall quality and expectations of the machine (and generally in cost as well). The terms and short explanations to follow are quite obvious and intuitive.
Worthy of note, in most if not all cases we have had to do some work to the machine to improve it and get it to what we consider its optimal condition given the age, condition it came to us in, and likely expectations of the next buyer, given its pricing and so on.
This is only a guide and is subjective – based on our opinion. We hope you find it helpful. Regardless, we would encourage you to still do your own due diligence, obviously, whether buying from us or elsewhere, in terms of checking the machinery over well to make sure it meets your needs and budget. No matter how hard we try to portray things as accurately as possible there is always potential we may miss a detail we ought to pass along. And remember – you will need to do some repairs to you machine at some point – be it tomorrow or a year from now – and regardless of whether the machine has 200 hours on it or 8000. If you don’t want to maintain and fix your machine, we’d suggest not buying – rent or borrow instead….owning means fixing when it comes to bobcats. Not wanting to discourage you from being the proud owner of a machine, but wanting to make sure you are prepared for the realities of doing so.

(1-4) Low priced units likely requiring some additional work
1. Inoperable - Parting-out
Describes a unit that is either incomplete or partially dismantled, doesn’t start or run or for whatever reason. We recommend its purchase for the purpose of stripping it of its useful remaining parts, or perhaps if ambitious the buyer may want to tackle rebuilding it. Loading and removal is the buyer’s responsibility, although we may be able to assist in some cases. 
2. Mechanic’s special
A significant step better than the previous category, this machine class it should still be noted will still no doubt require a not-insignificant amount of cost and effort to get the machine up and running properly as it should, to be a functional unit ready to work on a jobsite again. This machine may be currently functioning to some degree – perhaps with some effort it starts and moves (or not) but it is certainly not jobsite ready in our opinion as it sits presently. There may be one or more significant issues with the unit that we are aware of (maybe more to be discovered thereafter?) which will need to be addressed by the buyer. But it is our opinion (or hope) that with the right buyer – budget, knowledge and circumstances – that the unit will see life on a jobsite one day again.
3. Quick sale
Sometimes for whatever reason (usually limitations from one or more pressures – yard space, shop time, and/or cash-flow) we simply have not had the time or ability to run the unit through our shop, do a full assessment (or any perhaps) as to what it will require to do what’s necessary to move it on to one of the following (next, higher) categories of sale, and so are looking to sell at a discount (from what we could if we took more time on it) and to do so quickly. A really good deal may be found here for the right buyer, a fixer-upper, a diamond in the rough; or not. This is most likely a functioning, drivable, working unit, but we just can’t say much more than that about it as we may not even have had the opportunity to give it a cursory or in-depth look over.
4. As Is
Much like the quick sale (above) we have not had the opportunity to do much to the machine – either in assessing it / diagnosing its issues and coming up with a practical plan to address those issues and the related costs, to move the unit into a better category, be that a jobsite-ready condition, or other. Likely this is a good machine, perhaps needing some minor TLC to bring it back to its best form, but we just can’t say and don’t want to put our reputation on the line and guess. So since we don’t know, we sell it “as is” – meaning let the buyer take it and run it and discover what it needs, and then do it, or not (perhaps upon purchasing and making that assessment the new owner will choose to move off it himself, selling it without doing much to it). Almost always in this category it is a running and functional unit. It very well just might turn out to be a really good deal once the buyer has the time to go over it and make improvements. This kind of unit we may have some inkling as to what it may need and may be able to pass along that information to the buyer but we are not in position to address the issue before selling it, hence we sell it “as is”, as it is right at present, faults and all.
(Note: this category is not to be confused with the terms on the bill of sale that read “as is” or “sold as-is/where-is” which are simply expressions to denote the finality of the sale and the seller not being responsible for the unit there after in any way – commonlegal-type terms used universally to describe a used vehicle or other machinery being sold without warranty, returns or claim or assurances. We use that term as well on bills of sale.)

(5-7) We are confident we’ve found and fixed anything needing to be done on these machines
5. Jobsite Ready
For this type of machine we have at the very least had the opportunity to go over it in the shop and/or test it out on a site to determine that in our opinion it is game –ready, ready to work and put in a typical days’ work on a real jobsite (hopefully many) before needing any real shop time further. In our opinion, we would certainly not hesitate to take it out today and run it on a jobsite without any qualms and expect it to perform if we were contractors ourselves. We may have arrived at this opinion after we have done some repairs and maintenance to make it ready for the stresses of real work, or it’s possible it may have come in to us already in more or less that condition. We may had to do very little to it to make it functional, perhaps just new tires and cosmetics, others may have had to address more serious issues. We may have made a few or even numerous improvements and repairs to it, and may or may not be aware of more that could be done to it – so don’t expect perfection even if we call it “jobsite ready”, short of doing a full restoration there is almost no end to what one could do to recondition a machine to new, if resources were unlimited. Budget and pricing are often the constraints here – a full refurbishing can mean greatly increased costs for perhaps unnecessary improvements – in the view of a majority of potential buyers. Our goal is to whenever possible sell most machines in this condition whenever possible to do so. (Nevertheless one should always remember that even with this designation we cannot promise or guarantee any expectation of how long the unit will run for before need for any repair. It is still sold “as is – where is” legally speaking.)
6. Refurbished
A refurbished machine is one where we have had to do a significant number of things to bring it to the high level of appearance and functionality that it is currently. From a casual observer’s perspective it may look almost like a nearly-new machine. It is not just cosmetics (yes, it probably got new paint and decals, a new seat, new tires and so forth) but there may have been adjustments made, parts replaced, leaks repaired, new battery and other such type things done. Refurbished is a step more involved than just being “jobsite ready” but short of being “fully reconditioned”. Obviously a refurbished unit is one that is ready to go and work right now with no issues (unless we specifically say otherwise). Emphasis in this category is still more on function and mechanics – over appearance – but there likely has been some attention given to its looks as well.
7. Fully Reconditioned (or Restored, or Rebuilt)
There are several terms that probably equally describe a machine in this category. Fully reconditioned, or restored or rebuilt; these are similar and almost interchangeable terms - we would use those 3 in incrementally to describe a higher level of required work having been done to a particular unit to bring it back to its earlier glory and current condition - "Restored" having required more work than "Reconditioned" and "Rebuilt" a more involved project yet, comprehensive.  And all a step up form the "Refurbished" machine of #6.  Our designations anyway.  Refurbished, then Reconditioned, more work: Restored, and the biggest - Rebuilt.   Think a rusted out classic car or Model T Ford that hasn’t moved in decades, stripped nearly down to its bare metal and basic parts and rebuilt painstakingly to museum or showroom condition. That is kind of what we are talking about here, although exaggerated somewhat. No one needs a museum quality skid steer that is going to be in the mud and getting scratched and so on within days. But the point is that this machine has had some serious work done to it, perhaps major components being removed and replaced/rebuilt (although not necessarily, and certainly never all the pumps, motors and engine – there would never be the budget for all that on one machine), a lot of new and replacement parts installed and a decent amount of attention to the “niceties” too – the inside of the cab, the paint and decals, had a fair bit of detailing done to make it as close to new as is practical. Frankly due to lack of upside to doing so – so much labour and costs involved, we rarely get in to a rebuild or restoration to this extent. This is more a labour of love type project that an enthusiast or hobbyist might undertake, but not someone in business needing to make profits.

7+ Original / Needed nothing (needed little)
This is an extra category we have added for that rare machine that is being sold that is not quite an 8, next (read description) which is really low hour and "Fresh"...but almost!  Maybe the machine has 1200 hours on it (so not quite "Fresh" or low hour like 500 or 850 or something), or even may have 2500 hours, but 2500 gentle hours.  It may have been really well cared for, has had an easy life - has done light work, been stored indoors, had maintenance done regularly (not just repairs done, because it broke down and absolutely needed it), and so on. Often time a private-use machine.  Or owner-operator, where the owner runs it himself (and babies it).  And it never was used in construction, or worse - demolition.  So it may be the equivalent of the 7 "Fully Reconditioned" above, in terms of nice showroom-like (almost) quality, but except it didn't need any of that kind of work done to it - hence "Original". (Now by saying original we aren't claiming that its never had any work done to it or that every part on it was original from when it was delivered from the factory, clearly that notion is ridiculous, impossible; but just saying that for the record, so we're clear.)  But this is truly a nice machine, as nice as if we fully reconditioned it, except we didn't have to.

(8-10) New or very close to new machines
8. Fresh
We are looking for a better term for this category, and when we do we’ll update it. The thought is something that is low in hours and/or new in model year and/or obviously little used and/or in exceptional condition. This machine is younger/newer, and probably required little or nearly nothing from our shop to make it ready for sale. Hence the term “fresh”. While not entirely dependent on a particular number (ie being under x-many years old, or x-many hours, etc) it is really mostly dependant on a combination of those and its visual and mechanical condition. It will almost always have original paint and decals (otherwise it would likely be designated “Refurbished” or “Reconditioned”), and we won’t go so far as to say it is mint or showroom condition or even demo or nearly new, but something that is clearly very young, has seen few hours and has been well cared for. Something that maybe has 1000 or less hours on it and yet might be selling for half the price of new. So huge savings just because the depreciation curve is so steep in the first year or 2 or 3 after purchase new, and so there can be great value found here. 
9. Demo/repo
As the name indicates, when a machine is available for sale that was barely used from new, a factory or dealer demonstrator, or perhaps a repossession we will indicate it by this designation. Considerable savings from dealer brand new, and with perhaps only a few dozen hours on it.
10. New
Although we sell brand new from factory attachments and parts we do not often have brand new unused machines for sale, but when we do we identify them with this obvious category designation.
Three more terms we'd like to clarify when it comes to the sale of our used machines:

This is primarily concerning paint and decals. A smart looking machine is a source of pride for its owner. It looks good on the jobsite in the eyes of the client in the case of landscaper or contractor, for the rental company it instills confidence in his rental customers, and in general a clean looking nicely painted and decaled machine is good on a farm, factory, car lot, or private residence. Ideally original paint is the preferred – nothing is ever as good as that. But as noted above and anyone shopping around knows this to be true, but finding a machine with good looking original paint and decals is either really hard to do (very rare) and one that is affordable is even harder (even rarer)! That is because compact equipment has a hard life in general. They are small and so are used in sometimes impossibly tight quarters and so bumping into objects is a given. It doesn’t take long for the scratches and chips to accumulate. So to maximize the value of the machine a lot of owners and resellers will give them a paint job. If you have been looking around you will see that not all paint jobs are equal. Repainting a skid steer for instance, is a challenging thing – very tedious and time consuming. At the least a decent paint and decal job is around $2000, whether sent out or done in-house, most would agree. Many of our machines get this treatment simply because it increases their appearance and hence sell-ability and value. As well we take pride in what we sell – just like the buyer has pride in what he buys – and we like to send nice looking equipment out. But make not mistake about it – we do not just “slap a coat of paint” on something, while neglecting other more critical issues on the machine just to pretty it up and make a quick buck. Some might, but that is not what we do. Further, unlike an automobile which may have been in an accident and new paint could indicate there had been major mechanical, suspension and frame/structural damage some of which may still residually exist, the paint job intended to mask such – none of that is true with heavy equipment. Little can be covered by paint. And in fact little that matters on a machine could be covered by paint anyway. Even a weld to the boom arms or body is not a terrible thing. These are heavy pieces of equipment and some welding or repair here or there is not a bad thing, as needed. Further the plate steel used in the body and frame is so heavy that rust through like the thin sheet metal on a car or truck just simply does not ever exist with machinery. As a general rule of thumb, expect that a skid steer will need new paint and decals about every 1000 hours or 6-8 years. If you find a 20 year old machine don’t be surprised that it has had 2 or 3 paint jobs in its life.

"Fully serviced"
Almost never do we sell a machine with the words “fully serviced” included. Unless we specifically say so, it is not. What does that designation specifically refer to? 
When we speak of a machine being fully serviced, what we are usually referring to is the maintenance having been just done lately (generally by us) within the past service cycle’s timeline. For this we usually go by the 250 hour mark. Most machine manufacturers recommend some sort of in-shop fluid and filter replacement every 250 hours. Most have specific items to be checked or replaced at 250, 500, and 1000 hours, but the basic is usually done at the 250 point, on intervals of 250 (ie 250, 500, 750, 1000, 1250 and so on). It is best to do it on multiples of 250, that is what both we and the manufacturer recommend. Regardless of the actual time since it was last done (in months or years) we go by the machine’s hour meter, whatever we know of for sure based on data versus what the meter reads.  
(For instance if we have a filter with 1500 hours written in on it by the mechanic’s magic marker (or the actual shop paperwork, repair order/receipts with the info on it – hours etc) and we are now at 1625 hours showing on the meter, then we would not recommend that it need doing just yet. If you want it done, there is no harm in doing so, your decision. Using the same example, if you are at 1775 hours, then yes it needs doing and we will strongly recommend you doing so (either elsewhere, after you buy it from us, by us at the time of your purchase).  
In any case we do NOT include that in with the purchase price, ever;….unless we had to do major work on the hydraulic system, for instance (rebuild a pump) then we would have changed at the least the hydraulic oil, and perhaps the filter, and even then, normally the other services would not also have been done by us at the same time – such as air filter or engine oil change.
The reason it is not just something automatically done when we bring in a machine, repair and sell it, not just cover it in the price is simple:  
1. Cost: A full fluid and filter service is not cheap. For instance a small machine’s basic 250-hour service is usually about $300+ and a bigger machine considerably more. We work on relatively small margins when buying and repairing and selling and so cannot absorb that extra. Worth noting that very few if any other dealers include the full service with the price, so what we do by offering it separately is basically industry standard. And of course anyone buying privately, at auction or elsewhere will definitely not have that done for them and included.
2. There are choices to be made which really only the new owner should make – the grade of filter to be used (wide variance exists between OEM and various grades of aftermarket ones) as well there are additional items that the new owners may want to have done for peace of mind, based on their budget – things like drive belts, 1000-hour fluids and filters, themostats and coolant (flushes too?) and such type things. We need you to tell us what you want us to do.  
(However, of course if we have the machine in the shop and observe a badly worn or cracked fan belt, for instance, we’ll normally replace it, especially if we are selling it as “jobsite ready”, the #5 category or greater, typically)

Here we mean primarily 2 types: tires (air) and hydraulics.  Yes, there are other types possible - there are other fluids in a skid steer or mini-excavator, including engine oil and coolant (radiator/heating system).  And more minor ones, such as air conditioning (AC refrigerant), etc.  We won't discuss much about the engine oil or coolant, as those are exceedingly rare to occur - leaks of those types, and there is really no leeway when it comes to those critical fluids - engine failure is almost inevitable if either is not addressed promptly.  We would never allow a machine to be sold knowing there is either of those types of leak present.   However both with tires and hydraulics it is somewhat different.
Pneumatic tires: Unless you have purchased a machine with brand new tires and brand new rims it is impossible to guarantee that there will be no leaks of air pressure at all even as the machine is just leaving us to be taken possession by its new owner.  The fact is that skid steers have a hard life, work in all sorts of conditions and though their tires are rugged and have very tough carcasses and deep treads they are still susceptible to nails and other sharp and potentially damaging objects on a daily basis.  Depending on the type of injury or puncture there are different remedies to either temporarily or almost permanently correct the problem and stop the leaking.  A "section" as is called in the industry is a vulcanization process which is expensive and very effective - permanent.  But requires a specialty shop with very specialized vulcanizing equipment, and so is rarely seen on bobcat tires.  A patch if done properly, applied from the inside, is usually effective and permanent.  Plugs are temporary and applied from the outside, often while the tire is still on the machine.  They are known to dry out and leak or even pop out.  Rims also get rusty or dented and allow for leaks at the bead seat where the rubber and rim meet.  It is not uncommon for a skid steer tire, though still good and having years of service yet ahead to require re-inflating to operating range pressure once a week, or even almost daily.  Besides the aforementioned rim and plug leaks sometimes there are small needle-sized punctures that are almost impossible to locate or fix on some tires.  And recall - rubber is actually permeable, only slightly, but still about 1 lb psi is lost a month simply through air escaping through the solid rubber even with no leaks, its a well known physical fact.   We try to sell machines that only have good sound "not leaking" tires, but for all the above reasons, unless the tires and rims are brand new, chances are you should expect to have to pump up one or more or all on a periodic basis.  Remember - it is the pressure inside the tire that keeps it sealed to the rim - let it drop below a critical minimum point (usually about 50% of recommended full pressure) and there is a decent chance the seal will be lost and the bead no longer seated, and for skid steer tire you will almost certainly need professional help to get that tire inflated again.  2 tips: keep the pressure always maintained at the required pressure, and always have a 5th wheel - a mounted spare ready to go and with the machine - just like your car does, just in case.  In general we do not recommend the no-flat non-pneumatic foam-filled or solid tires, for a variety of reasons.  Ask us why if you want to know more.
Hydraulic fluid:  The power transmission from your diesel engine to the wheels or bucket functions is entirely dependent on hydraulic (and similar, hydrostatic) pressure - the pressure being created by the engine, turning the pumps and creating an unstoppable pressure of hydraulic fluid (oil) through a series of tubes and lines and being controlled by various valves until it reaches its destination where the work is done - the drive motors that turn the wheels or the cylinders that extend and contract to make the bucket move.  This pressure in most machines is from 3000 to 4000 PSI.  The smallest crack in a rubber line, or looseness in a fitting (connection) or wear on a rubber seal or o-ring, and a leak will be produced.  We can make you one promise right now - that every machine ever build for construction has had hydraulic leakage at one time or other (likely many times) in its 3000-20,000 hour lifespan.  Expect yours will too, at some point while you own it, perhaps numerous leaks.  Leaks are generally caused by one of those small things - a seal or fitting or line.  The cost of the parts is usually negligible - a few dollars, for the parts.  The labour to do the repair too may be small, but it can also be more costly depending on where the leak is coming from, or its cause, and how hard it was to locate and then fix.  This is the reality of having a hydraulic piece of equipment.  We will attempt to insure that we sell only machines that have "no hydraulic leaks" whenever we can.  We will generally advertise a given unit as such "no leaks" or "dry".   The reality is that that may only be true at the moment we made the posting up and posted it.  Leaks can appear (and maddeningly disappear sometimes too) for no reason, be slight or profuse.  Generally the bigger the leak the easier it is to locate its source, and often difficulty and cost to repair it is often not that much.  At the very least it is safe to say that the amount of leakage (the size of the puddle of oil on the ground underneath) is not very often proportionate to the cost of the repair to eliminate it.  We could go on for pages about hydraulics, pumps, fluid and leaks and such, but for the purpose of this page (the purchase of used equipment and what to expect) we simply want to point out that it is unrealistic to expect there to not ever be a leak in you new machine (goes for a used machine purchase or brand new), its only a matter of time.  And your used machine with say 3000 hours on it has likely had a dozen, perhaps dozens of leaks in its life already to that point.  3, 4 or more hydraulic lines may have been replaced, not to mention a few seals, perhaps a fitting or 2.  Maybe a pump or motor has had to have some work done to repair a weakness or leak.  In fact we may have had to see to a leak or 2 be addressed before making the machine available for sale - so there is a chance that an small secondary leak still exists besides, which we were unaware of.  Or the residual oil from the previous leak and the oil that spilled into the belly of the machine previous to or during the repair may still be present and slowly seeping out.  Or something new may have just developed in recent days.  And don't forget temperature can have a play in the presence of leaks - the cold can make seals harden and shrink, allowing leaks that may not be present or as bad in the summer, and at the other end, some leaks are only present or more serious when the temperature is warmer or the hydraulic fluid good and hot (and so thinner).  Some leaks come from return lines at low pressure, and leak all the time, a little, day and nigh as the unit sits; some leak only when a particular function of the machine is operated, and so on.  Some leaks are internal - into a cavity like a chaincase and aren't seen for a long time, until that volume exceeds the container.  For any of those reasons and more, a leak may show itself in a machine from time to time, may seem to get worse or better.  May seem to be fixed and isn't, or may have been fixed and just the old spilled oil still remains to be leaking out.  When we declare a machine as dry or no leaks, it is our absolute best intention to describe it as accurately as possible.  But since these hydraulic machines are inherently full of fluid and leaky in nature, do not expect a "leak free" machine to be absolutely leak free.  Don't park it on your favourite Persian carpet, or on your newly paved customer's driveway.  Get in the habit of putting a piece of plywood underneath it at night, just out of an abundance of caution.  Any machine, even one that appears to have no leaks may drop a drip of something from time to time (a weep).   If the spot on the ground in the morning after a night of sitting is "puddly", (ie has depth to it, and is smooth on top), and is greater in diameter than a tennis ball, then we would concur, that is a leak; small, but a leak (a minor leak).  If there is just a damp spot, something you cannot smear and extend with your finger or dip your finger into and get it wet, you don't have a "leak" - you simply have a used machine that left a spot (call it a seep).  If your overnight leak (1 night) creates a spot the size of a dinner plate and also drips as you move the machine around on the site as you work, you have a more serious leak (an actual leak).  If you are dropping oil all over - lines and spots everywhere you go, making a mess, and must refill the reservoir (because it has run so low that the pumps are whining, complaining) then you have a truly serious leak.  If you look under the machine and see a narrow stream of steady running oil coming out (like a tap slightly on) you have a bad leak (steady leak).   And if you have a leak that gushes all the oil in the tank out and is the size of the footprint of the whole machine, and flowing like a river, you have a gushing leak (meaning you may not be able to put oil in it and get it to run long enough without it bleeding out fully and  running dry and stopping before you can get the machine loaded on to your trailer and over to a shop for repair).  To recap, we may sell a machine designated as "no leaks" anywhere from dry (belly inside and underside is try dry, for now at least...) to something (see above) with a weep, or seep; a minor leak is nothing to be concerned about - wait until it becomes worse before even being a bit concerned about it.  Monitor and get repaired when you can an actual leak, and a serious or steady leak will need attention soon, or you'll be causing messes everywhere you go.  A gush means you must stop using the machine immediately and off to a shop for repairs before using it again.

We hope that providing this information helps make your equipment purchase easier and at the least a more informed one.